This is a really long post, but just a memory of some of the highlights of our trip. When we planned our first ever trip to NYC it was still winter and the forecasts for March were for cold, cold and more cold. For once we got lucky and it was sunny, dry and warm for most of our trip. We scheduled ourselves a fair pace with our 'don't miss' and touristy things, plus a long list of 'if we have time' - sadly the latter will have to wait for another trip.
Monday March 11th
We flew out from Heathrow at 11.20 and landed in JFK at around 3.30pm. And even an enormous school trip on our flight didn't dampen things too much. I did get to watch Dune and Wonka (Timothée Chamalet overload!) on the way out, both films I had been putting off seeing, so I didn't feel it was a complete waste of time. Immigration was surprisingly smooth given the stories we had heard. So, once we had checked in we set out to explore the Times Square area and have some dinner before we collapsed into bed. We had both got free upgrades to suites - we obviously looked like we needed it - but to be honest I think I sat on the enormous sofa just once in the whole time I was there!
Tuesday March 12th - An arty day
The first of a heavily scheduled few days we got up early and headed for Ellen's Stardust Diner for a 7am breakfast. The night before the queue was the full length of the block, so we were pleasantly surprised to just walk in. We had both been told about this place by loads of people before we came, and yes, whilst this is clearly on the tourist trail and isn't some kind of secret, it's definitely a good way to spend a meal or two. The serving staff are all aspiring Broadway stars (like the majority in all hospitality venues in the city I expect), but the difference here is that they also perform to the captive diners throughout the day. Yes there is a bucket to be passed around on top of the (surprisingly reasonable) bill and normal tips, but it's definitely worth it. The next stop was to the Rockefeller Centre for some views, which were clearly amazing. Of course there is suburban sprawl, but to see how closely packed the city is helps to understand the intensity of the place. Next was a walk through Central Park to the Metropolitan Museum for a wander over lunch.
At the Met there was far more to see than we could ever cover, so we focused on the American art mainly, although there was lots of other great stuff to distract me on the way. We made a point to visit the 'Washington crosses the Delamare', slightly dodgy propaganda as it is, mainly because of its part in the nationalist narrative of American Independence, and it is certainly a massive painting to behold. But I also enjoyed some of the Native American Art, particularly the room dedicated to what came before.
After a stop for a particularly revolting cup of tea from a streetside vendor who clearly didn't get the concept that herbal tea shouldn't have milk, we moved on with a walk further up 5th Avenue to the Guggenheim. Now, while the Met was lovely, and may have some of the best works, overall the Guggenheim was my favourite for the day. I think this is partly because the experience is so curated, due to the curving nature of the space which means that you come across the works in a very linear way. Whatever, I loved both the building and the experience, and saw some great art there too including a Van Gogh that was new to me.
We had already booked one big Broadway show for later in the week, and we thought we would grab something else to see, maybe a bit lower key. Having checked out the online ticketing, we found out a Tuesday night is not a good night for plays in NYC - Monday and Tuesday tend to be dark, so anything that is open is either a bit crap or overly subscribed and expensive. We could have walked down to the ticket booth in Times Square which is the last resort for cheap tickets but after getting the subway down from the Guggenheim and walking the wrong way for a few blocks and having to retrace our steps, frankly our legs weren't up to more walking. So, instead, we decided to book one of the two plays that were running in the (off-off Broadway) Jerry Orbach theatre which was just across the street from our hotel. The fact that we had already walked our legs off might have had something to do with our choices! We ended up with Friends: The Musical Parody which was pretty much as it sounds. It was silly and a bit sixth-formy, but the performers all gave it their all and we actually had a lot of fun. Also, the performer playing Chandler really was a lookalike for Matthew Perry, so although he was actually very funny it made me a bit sad.
Wednesday 13th March - All about the history
Another early start, this time with breakfast at a 'French' bakery across the street from the hotel. It was a classic American take on French food (too much protein and big portions you would never see in France) but still worked. Then off on the subway to catch the boat out to Ellis Island. Now of course the Statue of Liberty is probably THE icon of the US, and by boat was a good way to see it, up close the way that steerage passengers would have done in the past. We didn't get off at the Statue stop, but headed straight on to Ellis Island, which was well worth a visit. Restored in the 1980's and 90's, the exhibits take us through the immigrant experience in the 1890's to 1940's. Like all the best museums there was lots to think about in the way that immigrants were welcomed, discouraged or rejected that has implications for today. And I hadn't realised how much the US didn't want the Chinese even back in the day!!
We had lunch on the island in the strangest of cafeterias that eschews trays in favour of all customers balancing drinks and plates in precarious ways as they head to find tables. I tried another cup of tea, and did end up with breakfast tea, but I mistook 'half and half' for semi skimmed milk so had a bizarrely creamy drink instead.
Next stop when back on the mainland was a wander from Battery Park (the site of a long gone fort to fend off the British), through the financial district and Downtown. We obviously got lost a few times having developed a knack of carefully considering the route then just walking the wrong way. But, as a way of understanding how this city developed, it was great. From the early colonists (not much left of them) and even less left of the original inhabitants who supposedly sold Manhattan to Peter Minuit in 1624 for 60 Guilders There's not much left of the original Dutch city, or even of the British colony, so things really get going with the War of Independence. There are some impressive post Colonial buildings down in this part of the city which is notable for not following the grid system that applies further up. Some of the street names tell us a fair bit of history - Pearl Street, because this area was famed for its oysters before the colonists took over, and Mill Street for obvious reasons, then Wall Street, retaining the name of the barrier to keep out the British. Again there's not a lot left, except in the names, but there is Fraunces Tavern, where Washington bid 'Farewell to the Troops' and Hamilton set up his Treasury. Deeper into the financial district, we enjoyed the look at Trump Tower, 40 Wall St, and the story of thwarted ambition that sits behind it. Built to be the tallest building in the world only to be 'trumped' by the Chrysler building, itself overtaken by the Empire State a year later.
Just up the road is the Federal Hall, built on the spot where George Washington took his oath as first President of the United States. But this spot has a lot of other history as the place where the famous 1735 Zenger trial was held which established freedom of the press. It's also where the revolutionary Stamp Act Congress met to rail against 'Taxation without Representation', then after the war, where the first Congress met to draw up the Bill of Rights. Right next door is the New York Stock Exchange. You can almost feel the power! We ended this part of our day at the 9/11 memorial which is beautiful and huge without being mawkish or sentimental. I loved the Occulus next door, a huge statement of hope and confidence which towers over the memorial. Although disappointingly. but perhaps appropriately, it contains a huge shopping centre as well as transport links.
We ended this part of the day with a walk to and over the Brooklyn Bridge. My knowledge of the bridge before that day had got stuck on the images of people fleeing the city on 9/11, so it was lovely to see it as the gorgeous bit of engineering as it is, although it was packed full of a lot more tourists than locals I think.
We needed a sit down, so headed off to Spring Street on the edge of Greenwich Village, where we got a classic slice of Pizza, and ate it at the back of the shop, just next to the door to the restroom, which was surprisingly hard to get into; the woman next to us got up about half a dozen times to be thwarted by others queue jumping from various directions. But at least it had handwash although no paper....
Our evening was spent wandering around Greenwich Village. We had done our own tour earlier, so we decided to take it easy and hire ourself a guide for a few hours, along with two guys from Lincoln UK, and a couple from Chile. A different vibe completely, and I really understand why people want to live in this part of the city. Great, human scale buildings and streets and while there is lots of buzz, it's a bit less corporate, although of course the mob and corporate interests are still there, just better hidden. For example, I hadn't realised how much of the area is owned by NY University, as part of its property portfolio... never that easy to get away from 'the man'. After a wander through Washington Square, we headed to a street full of bars and clubs, and had we not been dead on our feet I think we could have spent hours there. Instead, we ended the evening with a stop to commemorate the Stonewall riots, and a look at Stonewall park (the smallest National Park in the US, apparently) through the railings as it was closed.
Thursday 14th March - Arts and Parks
The subway down to the Chelsea Market area this morning. We were there early so popped into Starbucks which was far too cool for us. This wasn't any old Starbucks but a Starbucks that roasts, grinds and blends its own beans in a very arty and cool way. This coolness comes at a price (about £8.50 a cup) but it set us up well for the day. We picked up a guide (and met the two guys from Lincoln again, obviously consulting the same resources as us!!) and spent the morning on a history and nature tour of the area. The huge Google building used to be the Port Authority building, and Chelsea Market is the factory where Nabisco invented (or stole) and manufactured the Oreo biscuit. The whole of this area is a potted industrial history lesson. After a wander through Chelsea Market which is now a very lovely, hip and expensive food market, we took a walk along the High Line, which can be used as so many metaphors it makes my head spin. From lessons about the changing nature of industry and human
invention, corporate enterprise, wheeling and dealing, to the more familiar stories about nature reclaiming land, it was interesting to hear how it took the money of Diane Von Furstenburg (and her husband Barry Diller) to get the park formally established. But the park was already doing that for itself after it closed as a railway line in November 1980 with over 400 species identified. Also entertaining was the story about the hotel owned by Jay-Zee. It towers over the Highline with amazing views over the river and the city. but is renowned apparently as an exhibitionists paradise, with every window
giving opportunities for eyefuls to the passersby below. Also worth noting the Liberty Inn here, notorious still as the last hotel charging by the hour, a centre for gay nightlife in the old days, but now up for sale. We then moved onto the Meat Packing district, now a high fashion and designer paradise, where the only meatpackers still operating do so on a protected peppercorn rent subsidised by the city. One of the most expensive places to live in the city nowadays, obviously I loved it!
I took far too many photos here of the High Line, the post industrial landscapes and the river. Then we grabbed an expensive but delicious bagel from Chelsea Market and headed to the new park 'Little Island' commissioned and owned by Diane Von Furstenburg, designed by Thomas Hetherwick. Opened in 2021, it is built over the Hudson, with lovely views into and away from the city. We had a lovely rest there in the sunshine, wishing we had brought t-shirts instead of jumpers, then (a little bit reluctantly) headed back to the city.
Next stop was MOMA, but via the New York Public Library (a lovely temple to reading!) and the Grand Central Station (another temple, this time to ... erm ... travel?). Both an example of the massive public projects that epitomise the confidence of the US. MOMA was full of great art of course, but I was surprised at what stood out for me. For example, the Monet room was lovely, even though I have seen many many Monets before. But there was also some stuff I hadn't seen before and a Martin Wong (Houston Street) which summarised what I had thought about NYC before I came here. And I spent ages in the rooms that focused on responses to industry and AI; loved a little Charlie Chaplin clip being played on repeat!
On our last evening in New York we had our Broadway show booked. Not being a musicals expert, I had chosen
Sweeney Todd as a production that seemed to epitomise Broadway, as a classic Sondheim with a starry cast (Aaron Tveit, Sutton Foster and Joe Locke). In addition, it is performed in the Lunn-Fontanne Theatre, a historic theatre by NY standards, remodelled in the late 50's, with the first production after reopening being that iconic Richard Burton
Hamlet that
The Motive and The Cue currently running in London is about. Anyway, the first thing to note is that although the tickets were very pricey, the playbill or programme was included in the price. We were in the 'Mezzanine' or circle, but had a reasonable view if everybody sat down and behaved themselves. But the american audience behaviour is very different to the UK. Applause at the start, when stars came on stage and pretty much throughout, which was still notable, even though it was a musical. Anyway, I really enjoyed it, and thought Joe Locke in particular was a revelation, with an absolutely lovely voice.
Friday 15th March - Our last day
We started our day back at the Stardust Diner with another breakfast, this time serenaded with a heartfelt
My Way to get us going. We headed over to the Empire State Building and joined a confusing queue which took forever to get going but I spent my time trying to recount the movies where the building had some kind of starring role - I could have waited as they are all listed in the exhibition area inside and I found out I had missed many. I enjoyed meeting King Kong too, although it made me sad as the movie always does. The sadness got blown away though on the observation deck which is very blustery but has great views, better than the Rockefeller Centre for Downtown. And this time we could point out the places we had visited (and the many we hadn't had time for).
Lunch was down in Soho, in a french cafe that turned out to be the first talking point of the tour we joined, as the inventor of 'cronuts' a mix of croissant and doughnuts. We didn’t have cronuts but they did have good coffee, a very nice almond croissant and an undercover 'garden' with a large group of tech-bros in the middle, meeting for a working lunch. Anyway, the rest of the afternoon was a walk from Soho through Little Italy to Chinatown, with a mixture of history and gossip along the way. I learnt that many of the grand buildings in the area were made of cast iron*, particularly the fancy architectural features, as way of having a fancy looking building on the cheap, got some good mafia stories for the Little Italy bit, and was impressed by the amazing groceries and food shops in Chinatown. We then had a long walk back to the subway, and stopped for a cheesecake before heading back to the airport,
So what will I take with me? One of the things I haven't mentioned is the pervasive smell of pot, and that will probably bring back the memory whenever I smell it in future. It was everywhere, from the poshest area to the subway and more dodgy corners, inside shops and museums and restaurants. Legalised in 2021, it is now as ubiquitous as I remember the smell of tobacco being back in the 1970s.
As usual, my favourite things were not really the most obvious tourist attractions, although all were done pretty well. The subway was a lot less crowded than the tube, and despite the stories I never felt unsafe. Just like in London, when you move from area to area, people and accents change, depending on the city village you are in, and just like at home, I found I liked areas I could never afford to live in the most.... I loved the High Line and the Chelsea area, especially that park out on the Hudson. My favourite gallery to my surprise was the Guggenheim, and although there was good art, it was because the building made it an experience too.
The main thing though is that there is still so much to see, so maybe another trip?
*In my first draft while still jet-lagged I wrote the buildings were made of steel which would have been even stranger!
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